Below is my translation from French to English of the editorial by Emmanuelle Alt which introduces the June/July issue of Vogue Paris. The issue is interesting in that it represents the first time that all of the international editions of Vogue have joined forces to deliver one message with their "Health Initiative Issue." Although I doubt that any of us will come away from reading with a derrière like Gisele Bündchen, I applaud Condé Nast for recognizing their responsibility to their readers.
Si les magazines de mode existent pour colorer la vie des femmes, ils n'en ont pas moins une responsabilité quant aux images et aux messages qu'ils véhiculent. Et ces dernières années, force est de constater que la valorisation de corps stéréotypés, de silhouettes à la minceur radicale a pu provoquer des dérapages qu'aucun titre n'a sincèrement anticipés et ne saurait cautionner. Conscient de sa force de frappe, de l'impact de ses partis pris, Vogue se fait la voix de la raison et définit clairement les contours d'une beauté qui s'épanouit absolument au diapason de la santés et du bien-être. Pour la première fois, les dix-neuf éditions du magazine prennent la parole de concert et lancent la ‹‹Health Initiative Issue››.
Au programme de ce numéro exceptionnel, toutes les clés pour se sculpter une silhouette tonique et harmonieuse sur un mode personnel, loin des clichés universels. Valorisation des courbes, alimentation vivante, snacks intelligents et antifatigue, conseils de pros en ‹‹bootcamps›› pour stimuler le muscle et le mental, etc. : toutes les étapes nécessaires à la conquête de l'équilibre sont déclinées ici.
Et même si la nature fait parfois des miracles, les miracles s'entretiennent au prix d'une discipline en béton. Ainsi Gisele Bündchen révèle en exclusivité les dessous de sa silhouette et de son état d'esprit radieux : nourriture bio, méditation, goût de l'exercice, bon sens. Autant de réflexes et d'attention à soi qui, s'ils comblent le top model, devraient aider toutes les ‹‹girls next door›› à se sentir plus belles et sûres d'elles.
If fashion magazines exist to color the lives of women, they have nevertheless a responsibility for the images and the messages they convey. And in recent years, it is clear that the valuation of the stereotyped body and the radically slim figures could lead to slips that no title was honestly expecting and can not endorse. Conscious of its clout, of the impact of its biases, Vogue is the voice of reason and clearly defines the contours of a beauty that flourishes absolutely in tune with health and welfare. For the first time, the nineteen editions of the magazine take the floor in concert and launch the "Health Initiative Issue."
The program for this special issue, all the keys to sculpt a figure toned and harmonious with a personal fashion, far from the universal clichés. Valuing curves, raw food, intelligent and anti-fatigue snacks, advice from pros in "bootcamps" to stimulate the muscle and the mind, etc.: all of the steps necessary in the conquest of equilibrium are hereby disclaimed.
And though sometimes nature makes miracles, the miracles are maintained at the cost of concrete discipline. Thus Gisele Bundchen reveals exclusively the bottom of her figure and her radiant state of mind: organic food, meditation, a taste for exercise, common sense. So many reactions and attention to oneself which, if they fill the top model, should help all the "girls next door" feel more beautiful and confident.
Vogue Paris editorial image © 2012 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.
The Angle On Alt: Mario Sorrenti
By Heather Dunhill
Behind his signature vintage Persol frames is the man with an explosive career in fashion photography that is Mario Sorrenti. Among his endless fashion editorials you will find credits that read “Photography by Mario Sorrenti/Styled by Emmanuelle Alt,” many of which pre-date Alt’s rise to Vogue Paris editrix. In a Vogue US article that introduced Alt as the new editor-in-chief, Sorrenti shared his feelings about the chic woman in charge: “Emmanuelle is not a dark person. She cares about expressing optimism and positivity.”
A friendship forged in business, the two have collaborated on projects with models such as Natasha Poly, Sasha Pivovarova, Kate Moss, Isabeli Fontana, and Raquel Zimmermann. In fact, Zimmermann was the star of a Sorrenti/Alt collaboration titled "Graffi-Couture," an editorial for the November 2009 issue of Vogue Paris, which was voted as one of the best editorials of 2009 by models.com. Another beautiful example of their work together is the editorial "Et Dieu Créa le Soleil" with Kate Moss for Vogue Paris June/July 2010.
Interestingly enough, but not surprising, this handsome Italian got his start in front of the camera posing for such names as Steven Meisel, Richard Avedon, and Bruce Weber. But it was in 1993 that Sorrenti’s career behind the lens was launched with a single photo. Well, not just any photo — it happened to be the sensual image of a naked Kate Moss, his then girlfriend, for the Calvin Klein Obsession campaign. This iconic photo was featured at the Danziger Projects 2011 exhibit of the Kate Moss Portfolio of which Cathy Horyn of The New York Times wrote, “Those of us who follow fashion and photography tend to have a favorite image of Kate Moss. I have two: Corinne Day’s portrait of a laughing and feather-headdressed Kate for a 1990 cover of The Face; and Mario Sorrenti’s 1993 image of her, with its deep shadow and her eyes looking at once tender and wary.”
More than an editorial photographer, Sorrenti is also an author and director. As the former he wrote The Machine, a photographic retrospective of work by his brother Davide Sorrenti who passed in 1997 from a drug overdose. Sorrenti has found himself in demand as a director as well. In 2004 he worked with John Mayer on his grayscaled music video for “Daughters,” and this year he shot the ultra-chic L'Eau de Chloé Spring/Summer 2012 commercial and print campaign.
The Chloé campaign is not all that the mega-photographer has accomplished this year. In the first half of 2012 alone Sorrenti has shot the cover of W with Edita Vilkeviciute, Abbey Lee Kershaw, and Tom Cruise; the W Korea cover with Candice Swanepoel; the i-D cover with Julia Restoin-Roitfeld; a Vogue Paris editorial featuring Alber Elbaz along with model Katryn Kruger; the M.A.C. Fall 2012 Campaign with Carine Roitfeld; an editorial titled "The Transformers" with Doutzen Kroes for Vogue US; the Calvin Klein Eternity Aqua Spring/Summer 2012 campaign with Edita Vilkeviciute; the Bulgari Man Spring/Summer 2012 campaign with Clive Owen; and the Pirelli calendar among other work for Hugo Boss, Barneys New York, Max Mara, and Vogue Italia.
Sorrenti explained his method to Interview Magazine, “I guess my work is described a lot of the time as very sensual and sexy. When I take a picture, I'm very focused on trying to discover something about a person. Or about an idea. I try to be quite successful at it.” Sorrenti turned New Yorker at the age of ten and lives there today with his wife Mary Frey and two children.
Mario Sorrenti photographs © 2009 and 2010 Condé Nast and courtesy of purple.fr, modelsjam.com, Chloé.