Vogue Paris inaugurated a new tradition as part of the Vogue Bar for Fashion Week at Hôtel de Crillon last March — their Petit Salon des Jeunes Créateurs (or Little Salon of Young Artists) showcasing eight talented young designers: Vincent Darré, Ligia Dias, Damir Doma, Olympia Le-Tan, Alberto Marani, Maxime Simoëns, Anthony Vaccarello, and Yiqing Yin. Our lovely editor-at-large, Kate Ringo Suzuki, offers her thoughts below on the recent collections of these hot young designers. Thank you kindly, Kate! Feel free to browse the collections and leave your own opinion of these designers in the comments, I would love to know what you think...
Petit Salon Des Jeunes Créateurs
By Kate Ringo Suzuki
In March, Emmanuelle Alt hosted her first event for Vogue Paris at the Hôtel de Crillon called Petit Salon des Jeunes Créateurs, which translates to Little Salon of Young Artists. The event featured eight fresh talents who are striving to make their mark in the competitive world of fashion design. In an atmosphere where the major fashion houses swap out the same few established fashion designers like boys and their baseball cards, it is refreshing to consider the art of up and comers. In no particular order, I summarize each jeune créateur:
Yin’s designs are womanly, sculptural statements that mold to the body while also containing cloudlike volume. Her designs are a beautiful play on texture, fluidity, artful pleats, and draping.
Doma’s Fall 2011 collection of bold, minimalist, rectangulated silhouettes with large scale shoulder emphasis communicates an otherworldly essence. Colors are black, white, and copper… Beam me up, Doma.
Marani’s Winter 2011 collection features dresses that look like works of modern art. Graphic blocks of black, cream, and tan are interspersed with painterly prints rendered in silk. The silhouette is straight, as are the design lines.
Artist, interior designer, furniture maker, and fashion designer, Vincent Darré has an impressive background in theatrical and cinematic design, which inform his aesthetic. A September show will unveil his collection inspired by Salvador Dali and Captain Nemo.
The quirky Le-Tan recently designed cheeky hand-knit box clutches featuring copies of the original covers of classic reads like Ernest Hemingway’s For Whom The Bell Tolls and Arthur Miller’s The Misfits. Le-Tan finished the bags with a Liberty print lining.
Skin is in at Anthony Vaccarello. His Fall 2011 collection is an unabashed parade of edgy sex appeal. His dresses highlight the interplay between opaque and sheer. Bold cutouts reveal arms, shoulders, cleavage, and legs simultaneously. The miracle is that he manages to make it all look completely sophisticated.
Simoëns' Fall 2011 couture collection represents refined Orientalism through intricate Baroque beading, the use of tassles, and a lean, tailored silhouete. A parade of creamy, fine wool ensembles with muted tone on tone colors are momentarily interrupted by black frocks with a bold pop of coral.
The jewelry of Ligia Dias cleverly incorporates yin and yang. Raw, rough hewn materials like ropes and brass plates share space with precious ribbons, pearls, and glass beads. The result is modern and humorous... not “That’s funny!” but “Wow, that is clever and I love it!”
We are watching you, jeune créateurs!
Emmanuelle Alt and Vogue Bar photographs © 2011 Condé Nast and eyeoncouture.blogspot.com. All Rights Reserved.