Vogue Paris: Biker Couture
By Paul Kolyer
Couture has taken to the streets, having been knocked off the salon pedestal for some time now, and Anastasia Barbieri has clearly taken the street influences in her collaboration with Glen Luchford, whose new book Pictorialism, is on my wish list. Anastasia adds a casquette en cuir and biker boots throughout this charming shoot. The casquette has been favored by Emmanuelle Alt for some time, a Greek fisherman style in navy is seen on her above.
My first sight of Dior couture was this WWD cover and I was overjoyed! I love the flight suit updated by the Dior Atelier for 21st century chic. I instantly remembered Galliano taking a bow in an astronaut uniform after a Dior couture show. Anastasia brings the look down to earth with Sasha playing guitar in her dark bob and Tiffany diamonds. Perhaps this charming girl needs to make some spare change to pay for these high dollar looks!
Zuhair Murad is a couturier in the grand French tradition of Hubert Givenchy, he loves highly embellished feminine fabrics and silhouettes. The bomber jacket influence is everywhere in fashion and Anastasia shows a Margiela silk version with a bomber-like blouson by Murad over his pleated gown.
Gaultier brings sporty back. He knows how to elevate sporty separates to haute levels with couture craftsmanship. His silver off the shoulder top and matching joggers over a black embellished maillot turn heads on the subway commute.
Black leather flat boots are always in style and the more biker the better to go with this fall's couture. These boots give a downtown feel to the upscale clothes. October's issue has a fabulous selection, as did Emmanuelle Alt's grunge editorial from last fall, like these vintage boots.
The Schiapparelli reboot is hitting its stride with a knockout couture collection. Schiapparelli excelled at tailored evening jackets and coats. This zoot suit style strong shouldered look has the flavor of this vintage picture of Salvador Dali in a tux with his wife and friend in Schiapparelli ensembles from 1939.
Chanel had a biker moment in 1991, when Karl Lagerfeld showed leather jackets and biker boots. Far from the Chanel couture Versailles influence, Sasha perches on a sidewalk sofa. The one in the Louis XIV style is left behind in her mother's Park Avenue parlor.
Vogue Paris editorial images © 2014 Condé Nast. WWD image © 2014 Fairchild Publishing, LLC, All Rights Reserved.