I Want To Be An Alt

Kellina de Boer
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Paul Kolyer
MANAGING EDITOR

Heather Dunhill
FASHION EDITOR

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Kamila Brudzynska
Bernie Rothschild

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mardi
sept.162014

Vogue Paris: Changes

Vogue Paris: Changes
By Paul Kolyer

Being a fashion Taurus, Emmanuelle Alt might be reluctant to change. Earth signs love stability, loyalty, and being grounded.

What makes Fashion (and life) so exciting is the thrill of constant change and the unknown. The human body and the seasons are factors which control the creative impulses of designers and stylists to "reinvent the wheel" each season. Change IS relentless and can take a toll in Fashion. A recent article in WWD by Bridget Foley bemoans the endless cycle of shows, especially the Pre-Fall and Pre-Spring! More critics and designers are lashing out against the relentless, overwhelmingly stressful Fashion System!

As I write this, news breaks of Gaultier stopping all RTW shows after his S/S 2015 show in Paris. Barely able to catch its breath, Fashion goes on.

More changes for Vogue Paris as well! "La Complice de Vogue" highlights the new fashion director Suzanne Koller. Jennifer Neyt has moved to fashion and markets editor (confirmed on the September masthead). Change can be bittersweet, I will miss Capucine Safyurtlu at the shows with the Voguettes!

The August issue of Vogue Paris is always a fall preview. The possibilities of the new season are explored, with Emmanuelle Alt at the head of the pack. When Alexander Wang cast Anna Ewers in his show a few seasons back, he said she would be a star — Vogue Paris has put her on that pedestal! I still believe a Vogue Paris cover is a must for every great model's portfolio. Liya and Cora have had two beautiful covers and I still wait for more diversity! Alt's cover is a result of her audacious collaboration with Mert & Marcus!

Striking pieces for fall are worn without fuss. The design, color, textures, and shapes do all the heavy lifting. This modern Bardot simply needs a light and off she goes! Among the best of the best, the Saint Laurent leather Saharienne is a new spin on a classic! The volume of the hair and the minimal makeup with neutral mouth and bleached brows make this metallic leather look come together in the spirit of a modern Betty Catroux.

Géraldine Saglio, Alt's loyal assistant, has become a confident stylist with strong range and she flexes her styling muscles in three impactful editorials for the August issue. Géraldine has mastered the "Bijoux" feature over the years and Dutch model Imaan Hammam seduces in opulent dresses and jewels. Included is the Cartier lighter that one would offer a Parisian in an opium den. I hope to see more of Imaan in future issues! Geraldine changes styles in the "Working Girl" editorial with Arizona Muse. Is tinkering with menswear your thing? Arizona looks so young and charming in this story. How about a satin bomber over a tank and coveralls with thigh-high boots as you run errands this fall?

The "Beaute" features have expanded under Alt and continue to be must-sees in each issue. Geraldine goes organique in high style photos by Mark Segal. Unkept, random, and wet are officially chic when applied to makeup and hair!

More changes in this issue include the return of the legendary Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, her interview and editorial are highlights as well. Melanie Ward also returns to style Raquel Zimmermann. The python is alive in these pics and Raquel's new crimped hair changes the mood of these fall styles along with minimal gold chains and Edie Sedgwick leggings. Any future book on Dries van Noten must include Ward's take on his patterned coat!

Another top model changes her hair color for Vogue Paris as styled by Suzanne Koller. Sasha Pivovarova is back — so different from her last VP cover! The reddish highlights are casually "unfinished." She looks very Parisian with unkept hair and tailored looks in solid/graphic sophisticated fabrics.

August has come and gone, but this issue will stand the test of time, as so many under the dominion of editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt. Au revoir summer… but the sun never sets on great fashion and style!

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

samedi
août232014

Review: Vogue Paris August 2014 Issue

Review: Vogue Paris August 2014 Issue
By Heather Dunhill

Before I launch into my August review of Vogue Paris I have a question to ask: Have you experienced the magazine online? It will change absolutely everything. I download my copy via iTunes and it is the modern magazine reimagined… and it’s quite fabulous.

This month, swipe just once and you are on Gucci’s Bright Diamante découvrez le film, which just takes luxe advertising up, up, and far and away. Swipe two is a montage of continually changing and refreshing art fashion images found within. And, that was simply two swipes…. wait until you see what else is in store.

But I digress….

The opulence and exoticism of the Orient is back and was styled in "Bijoux" in a way that would meet the approval of Yves Saint Laurent himself. So beware if you are going to pull off the trend, it is best to take the advice of Coco Chanel — “take one thing off before leaving the house” — and flip it. Add at least one more piece, if not three.

And, if you want to get to know Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele, the stylist before stylists were stylists, check out #CCD. This woman can literally pair together and pile on anything and make it look better than Carrie Bradshaw, always with the confidence of one who innately knows. By the way, this is the woman who single-handedly defined the 90s style of iconic supermodels from Campbell to Turlington. Yeah, CCD is cool.

But, really, my issue favorite is "Audacieuse" (Translation: Bold) with photos by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, styled by Emmanuelle Alt. Absolutely beyond bold and into fantastically divine where they took pieces from the likes of the big dogs — Ashish, Chanel, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier, Miu Miu, Gucci, Lanvin, Gareth Pugh, and Yohji Yamamoto — it’s otherworldly. I can’t spoil it for you… it is truly a must-see. You won’t be the same.

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

samedi
août162014

Alt Inspires Saint Laurent Emmanuelle Bag

Alt Inspires Saint Laurent Emmanuelle Bag
By Paul Kolyer

Is owning an IT BAG on your bucket list? If you were a Muse, which would you choose? Permit me to present the Saint Laurent Emmanuelle Bag!

Is this bucket bag named in honor of Hedi Slimane's friend and muse Emmanuelle Alt? Rarely seen wearing status bags, Ms. Alt has worn the new Emmanuelle bag this year! Emmanuelle prefers the black leather version with fringe and wears it like a cross body bag. For the Saint Laurent show in June, Ms. Alt accompanied the bag with head-to-toe Saint Laurent black — leather fringe jacket, slim pants, and booties — for Maximum Noir Chic!

Another top stylist, Melanie Huynh, was spotted wearing the same version of the bag as Emmanuelle to the couture shows in Paris! Ms. Huynh was an assistant to Carine Roitfeld at Vogue Paris and is a muse to Mr. Joseph Altuzarra! Melanie is perfection with the Emmanuelle bag over one shoulder, peasant blouse and safari skirt! I say let the ladies who lunch have their Birkins and Lady Diors! How I love them too! The Emmanuelle bag has a rock 'n' roll edge and is so versatile — exactly as chic at the Couture shows, on the back of a Vespa, Chateau Marmont, Coachella, or Glastonberry!

According to those in the know, Louis Vuitton created its famous Noé bucket bag in 1932 to hold Champagne bottles for the well-to-do Parisians! I would totally bring along some bubbly in the Emmanuelle bag to Fashion Night Out Paris this September!

The influence of Hedi Slimane continues to rock fashion's chicest circles, and the Saint Laurent brand is posting double digit profits! I wonder how many Emmanuelle bags will appear on opening night of Slimane's photography show "Hedi Slimane: Sonic"… The show opens September 18 and is sure to be a highlight of Paris Fashion Week.

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Emmanuelle Alt et al photos © 2014 Getty Images, Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

lundi
août112014

Vogue Paris September 2014: Natalia Vodianova

From the Vogue Paris web site...

Créateurs, muses, allure, humeur... Une édition de rentrée décryptant les multiples facettes de la Parisienne, en kiosque le 20 août prochain.

"La Parisienne est-elle réelle? On peut se le demander. Elle paraît si sûre d'elle. Elle fait si peu d'efforts. C'est parfaitement injuste, tout ce qui coûte aux autres lui est parfaitement naturel.", écrit Emmanuelle Alt, rédactrice en chef de Vogue Paris, dans l'édito du numéro de septembre 2014. En couverture de cette édition photographiée par Mert & Marcus, Natalia Vodianova, nouvelle figure de la Ville Lumière, porte haut les couleurs de celui qui a présenté en mars dernier sa toute première collection pour la maison Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière. De son allure Sixties remise au goût du jour, aux marinières éternelles de Jean Paul Gaultier, en passant par les smokings parfaitement coupés de Pallas, ceux qui savent capter les subtilités du chic parisien sont à l'honneur dans les pages de ce numéro. A leurs côtés, les nouvelles ambassadrices de ce charme à la française qui compte à l'étranger: HollySiz, Aymeline Valade, Sandrine Kiberlain, Delphine Arnault, Carla Bruni ou le souvenir de l'irremplaçable Loulou de la Falaise. Parfums, beauté, accessoires -d'un noir mat bien sûr- le pas décidé de cette Parisienne entraîne le monde à sa suite pour découvrir les nouveaux rooftops ou lieux incontournables des deux rives. Un condensé d'allure essentiel, à maîtriser avant de participer le 16 septembre prochain à la 6ème édition de la Vogue Fashion Night Out.

Vogue Paris n°950, en kiosque le 20 août

The designers, the muses, the look, the mood: the September issue explores the many faces of Paris and her women. Out August 20.

"Is the Parisienne real? good question. She seems so sure of herself. She makes so little effort. It's far from fair that what others struggle to achieve comes so naturally to her.", writes Vogue Paris Editor-in-Chief Emmanuelle Alt, in her September 2014 editorial. New Parisienne Natalia Vodianova graces the cover, bearing the style standard for Nicolas Ghesquière's first collection for Louis Vuitton, for Mert & Marcus. From contemporary Sixties appeal, to Jean Paul Gaultier's timeless Breton stripes and Pallas's perfectly cut Le Smoking, our September issue pays tribute to all those who know how to capture the subtilities of the famed Parisian chic. Alongside them are the overseas ambassadors of French je ne sais quoi, HollySiz, Aymeline Valade, Sandrine Kiberlain, Delphine Arnault, Carla Bruni and the memory of the irreplaceable Loulou de la Falaise. From fragrance to beauty and accessories - matte black, bien sûr - the Parisienne leaves the world in her wake as she explores the new crop of rooftop bars and insider addresses on both the left and right banks. Brush up on your Paris credentials, ahead of the 6th Vogue Fashion Night Out, September 16.

Vogue Paris n°950, in newsstands from August 20

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Vogue Paris September 2014 issue cover by Mert & Marcus © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

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Vogue Paris Translation: Le Point De Vue De Vogue June/July 2014

La mer est calme, limpide, les corps allongés sur le sable sont constellés de gouttelettes brillantes. Un fantasme ? Non. C'est l'été. Ce numéro propose un mode d'emploi tout neuf pour savourer cette parenthèse dont on a rêve toute l'année. Objectif numéro 1 : la forme. Et si à la place du duo farniente-bronzage, on misait sur une discipline douce pour embellir en profondeur ? Rien de méchant, c'est ça le mieux. Une histoire d'allure et de mental avant tout. On élance sa silhouette en changeant de posture, via un yoga révolutionnaire. On revient aux fondamentaux — vélo, danse —, mais avec un twist. On auto-guérit par une alimentation sur mesure, fondée sur la naturothérapie. On copie le régime des tops qui, sympas, partagent leurs menus et recettes modèles.

34 ans seulement, Anthony Vaccarello est la nouvelle star de la galaxie mode. Style ultra-affûte, ligne spectaculaire, le designer belge d'ascendance italienne nous bluffe. Prochain coup d'éclat : une collection pour le label Versus de Donatella Versace. Avant de faire cette rentrée choc, le créateur s'est confié à Vogue.

Comme l'été est notre saison préférée, on trouve aussi dans ce numéro le best-of du vestiaire pré-fall photographié par Patrick Demarchelier, et plein de bonus consistants : comme une rencontre avec Jeff Koons, star de l'art contemporain dont l'œuvre produit un effet feel-good garanti, ou le décryptage de notre amour immodéré pour les séries télé, véritable bombe dans le paysage culturel.

The sea is calm, clear, the bodies elongated on the sand are studded with shining droplets. A fantasy? No. This is summer. This issue includes a manual to enjoy this brand new interlude which has been the dream all year. Objective number 1: form. What if instead of lazily tanning, we relied on a gentle discipline to beautify in depth? Nothing too serious, that is the best way. A story of the allure of the mind foremost. One changes the figure quickly by changing the posture via a revolutionary yoga. One returns to the fundamentals — bike, dance — but with a twist. One self-cures with a tailored diet based on naturopathy. One copies the regime of the tops who, nicely, share their menus and model recipes.

Only 34 years old, Anthony Vaccarello is the new star in the fashion galaxy. Ultra-sharp style, spectacular line, the Belgian designer of Italian descent bluffs us. Next stunt: a collection for the label Versus by Donatella Versace. Before making this reentry shock, the creator confided inVogue.

As summer is our favorite season, we also find in this issue the best of the pre-fall wardrobe photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, and plenty of robust bonuses: like a meeting with Jeff Koons, star of the contemporary art whose work produces a feel-good effect guaranteed, or decrypting our immoderate love for the TV series, a real bomb in the cultural landscape.

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Vogue Paris editorial image © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.