Vogue Paris: Changes
By Paul Kolyer
Being a fashion Taurus, Emmanuelle Alt might be reluctant to change. Earth signs love stability, loyalty, and being grounded.
What makes Fashion (and life) so exciting is the thrill of constant change and the unknown. The human body and the seasons are factors which control the creative impulses of designers and stylists to "reinvent the wheel" each season. Change IS relentless and can take a toll in Fashion. A recent article in WWD by Bridget Foley bemoans the endless cycle of shows, especially the Pre-Fall and Pre-Spring! More critics and designers are lashing out against the relentless, overwhelmingly stressful Fashion System!
As I write this, news breaks of Gaultier stopping all RTW shows after his S/S 2015 show in Paris. Barely able to catch its breath, Fashion goes on.
More changes for Vogue Paris as well! "La Complice de Vogue" highlights the new fashion director Suzanne Koller. Jennifer Neyt has moved to fashion and markets editor (confirmed on the September masthead). Change can be bittersweet, I will miss Capucine Safyurtlu at the shows with the Voguettes!
The August issue of Vogue Paris is always a fall preview. The possibilities of the new season are explored, with Emmanuelle Alt at the head of the pack. When Alexander Wang cast Anna Ewers in his show a few seasons back, he said she would be a star — Vogue Paris has put her on that pedestal! I still believe a Vogue Paris cover is a must for every great model's portfolio. Liya and Cora have had two beautiful covers and I still wait for more diversity! Alt's cover is a result of her audacious collaboration with Mert & Marcus!
Striking pieces for fall are worn without fuss. The design, color, textures, and shapes do all the heavy lifting. This modern Bardot simply needs a light and off she goes! Among the best of the best, the Saint Laurent leather Saharienne is a new spin on a classic! The volume of the hair and the minimal makeup with neutral mouth and bleached brows make this metallic leather look come together in the spirit of a modern Betty Catroux.
Géraldine Saglio, Alt's loyal assistant, has become a confident stylist with strong range and she flexes her styling muscles in three impactful editorials for the August issue. Géraldine has mastered the "Bijoux" feature over the years and Dutch model Imaan Hammam seduces in opulent dresses and jewels. Included is the Cartier lighter that one would offer a Parisian in an opium den. I hope to see more of Imaan in future issues! Geraldine changes styles in the "Working Girl" editorial with Arizona Muse. Is tinkering with menswear your thing? Arizona looks so young and charming in this story. How about a satin bomber over a tank and coveralls with thigh-high boots as you run errands this fall?
The "Beaute" features have expanded under Alt and continue to be must-sees in each issue. Geraldine goes organique in high style photos by Mark Segal. Unkept, random, and wet are officially chic when applied to makeup and hair!
More changes in this issue include the return of the legendary Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, her interview and editorial are highlights as well. Melanie Ward also returns to style Raquel Zimmermann. The python is alive in these pics and Raquel's new crimped hair changes the mood of these fall styles along with minimal gold chains and Edie Sedgwick leggings. Any future book on Dries van Noten must include Ward's take on his patterned coat!
Another top model changes her hair color for Vogue Paris as styled by Suzanne Koller. Sasha Pivovarova is back — so different from her last VP cover! The reddish highlights are casually "unfinished." She looks very Parisian with unkept hair and tailored looks in solid/graphic sophisticated fabrics.
August has come and gone, but this issue will stand the test of time, as so many under the dominion of editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt. Au revoir summer… but the sun never sets on great fashion and style!
Vogue Paris editorial images © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.