I Want To Be An Alt

Kellina de Boer
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Paul Kolyer
MANAGING EDITOR

Heather Dunhill
FASHION EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Kamila Brudzynska
Bernie Rothschild

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dimanche
sept.282014

IWTB Interview: Paul Kolyer

IWTB Interview: Paul Kolyer
By Heather Dunhill

Tell us a fashion quote that describes you…

"Elegance is refusal." according to Diana Vreeland. This quote has haunted me since I read it 20+ years ago. For me, so many things come to mind, especially one's refusal to compromise, stick to your guns as it were and don't settle for less than you deserve!

Do you think fashion is art?

No. Like Lagerfeld says in The World According to Karl — "The purpose of dress design is to make people feel good, not to express the pain and the suffering of the world in taffeta."

What color defines you at the moment?

Gray. In all shades and textures, I always loved Christian Dior's use of gray!

Put three words down to capture your aesthetic…

Minimal. Classical. Romantic.

I know it’s a challenge, but pick one current designer and choose a must-have piece from that collection.

I have two, one is an accessory, I love these Hermès pleated silk neckpieces (seen above). From the beach, to a restaurant, with a tshirt or under a tuxedo jacket...  And Balmain, I love asymmetry, military, sweater dressing, and skirts so this collection is a bonanza for me! Have to have the one shoulder military jacket, will last for seasons and is so versatile!

Okay, now the same from history...

Elsa Schiaparelli black velvet evening cape from 1938, it was given to the Met in 1951. A masterpiece! The embroidery is based on the Neptune Fountain in the Parc de Versailles. The photo below is from V Magazine © 1977 The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

What’s your social media of the moment? And, what’s your recent favorite find on it?

Still getting used to this new age of social media, I keep going back to Facebook, it's like having immediate access to 1000s of fashion magazines! I love men's fashion and The Fashionisto has everything I need to know, and I subscribe to the magazine.

What’s the last accessory you purchased?

Black leather Margiela cuff, it's  two different wrist bands connected, two textures of black.

And, for fun...

With whom would you love to be stuck in an elevator?

Emmanuelle Alt, of course, we would talk about her personal style and fashion career. I could maybe get some style, health, and diet secrets, [she looks so good!] and imagine the interview for IWTBAA! I would also ask her to hire the IWTBAA team for Vogue Paris and Vogue.fr! Whatever we would like, but I would love to be an assistant! Dry cleaning doesn't pick up itself!

When I entertain, I like to make...

The three-grain pilaf from The Angelica Home Kitchen is something I never tire of. It is easy to make and can be a side dish or tossed with sautéed veggies, like onion, garlic, broccoli, kale, and spinach. It is also good with butter or veggie gravy on top!

What did you collect as a kid?

Wacky Packages stickers by the Topps Chewing Gum Company. They are funny parodies of American popular products, like Minute Rice, Ajax, Planter Peanuts, etc. Pop Art for kids! Google them and see!

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Paul Kolyer photograph © 2014 Paul Kolyer.

vendredi
sept.192014

Vogue Paris October 2014: Natasha Poly And Aleksandra

From the Vogue Paris web site...

Un portrait de famille touchant, réunissant Natasha Poly et sa fille sous l'objectif d'un autre fidèle de Vogue Paris, Mario Testino. A découvrir en kiosque le 29 septembre prochain.

"La vedette de ce numéro est cette chose craquante, un vrai bébé Johnson, que tout le monde a envie de prendre dans ses bras. Elle s'appelle Aleksandra, blonde aux yeux bleu marine, c'est la fille du top model Natasha Poly, avec qui cette enfant a posé avec une gentillesse, une sagesse confondante pour la série de mode "Un Air de famille", photographiée par Mario Testino.", écrit Emmanuelle Alt, rédactrice en chef de Vogue Paris dans l'édito du numéro d'octobre 2014. Une couverture intime, marquant les dix années de collaboration de la cover girl en immortalisant cette nouvelle venue. La famille Vogue Paris s'agrandit et se réunit dans les séries mode, beauté ou bijoux ce numéro d'octobre: Anja Rubik, Saskia de Brauw, Andreea Diaconu, Karlie Kloss, mais aussi les new faces avec Grace Hartzel. Des proches également présents aux côtés d'autres personnalités le soir du Vogue Paris Foundation Gala, au terme de la semaine de la haute couture automne-hiver 2014-2015. En supplément de cette édition baby boom, le Vogue enfants part à l'aventure pour une saison automnale pleine d'évasions.

Vogue Paris n°941, en kiosque le 29 septembre

This month's cover is one for the family album. Natasha Poly and her baby daughter pose for Vogue Paris regular Mario Testino, in an intimate portrait, on sale September 29.

"The runaway star of this issue is good enough to eat, a real-life Johnson's baby that had the whole team lining up for a cuddle. Her name is Aleksandra, the blue-eyed, blonde-haired daughter of model Natasha Poly, who was as good as gold when she sat for Mario Testino's 'Un Air de famille' editorial," writes Vogue Paris Editor-in-Chief Emmanuelle Alt, in her October 2014 editorial. The intimate picture marks ten years of our relationship with the cover girl and a first for the new arrival, as the Vogue Paris family comes together once again for the October fashion and jewelry editorials. Look out for Anja Rubik, Saskia de Brauw, Andreea Diaconu, and Karlie Kloss, alongside new faces including Grace Hartzel, with the models' friends also putting in an appearance at another family gathering back during Couture Week Fall/Winter 2014-2015, at the Vogue Paris Foundation Gala. The October kids' supplement sees the Vogue gang looking for Autumn adventures as Fall looks set to be a family affair.

Vogue Paris n°941, out September 29

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Vogue Paris September 2014 issue cover by Mert & Marcus © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

mardi
sept.162014

Vogue Paris: Changes

Vogue Paris: Changes
By Paul Kolyer

Being a fashion Taurus, Emmanuelle Alt might be reluctant to change. Earth signs love stability, loyalty, and being grounded.

What makes Fashion (and life) so exciting is the thrill of constant change and the unknown. The human body and the seasons are factors which control the creative impulses of designers and stylists to "reinvent the wheel" each season. Change IS relentless and can take a toll in Fashion. A recent article in WWD by Bridget Foley bemoans the endless cycle of shows, especially the Pre-Fall and Pre-Spring! More critics and designers are lashing out against the relentless, overwhelmingly stressful Fashion System!

As I write this, news breaks of Gaultier stopping all RTW shows after his S/S 2015 show in Paris. Barely able to catch its breath, Fashion goes on.

More changes for Vogue Paris as well! "La Complice de Vogue" highlights the new fashion director Suzanne Koller. Jennifer Neyt has moved to fashion and markets editor (confirmed on the September masthead). Change can be bittersweet, I will miss Capucine Safyurtlu at the shows with the Voguettes!

The August issue of Vogue Paris is always a fall preview. The possibilities of the new season are explored, with Emmanuelle Alt at the head of the pack. When Alexander Wang cast Anna Ewers in his show a few seasons back, he said she would be a star — Vogue Paris has put her on that pedestal! I still believe a Vogue Paris cover is a must for every great model's portfolio. Liya and Cora have had two beautiful covers and I still wait for more diversity! Alt's cover is a result of her audacious collaboration with Mert & Marcus!

Striking pieces for fall are worn without fuss. The design, color, textures, and shapes do all the heavy lifting. This modern Bardot simply needs a light and off she goes! Among the best of the best, the Saint Laurent leather Saharienne is a new spin on a classic! The volume of the hair and the minimal makeup with neutral mouth and bleached brows make this metallic leather look come together in the spirit of a modern Betty Catroux.

Géraldine Saglio, Alt's loyal assistant, has become a confident stylist with strong range and she flexes her styling muscles in three impactful editorials for the August issue. Géraldine has mastered the "Bijoux" feature over the years and Dutch model Imaan Hammam seduces in opulent dresses and jewels. Included is the Cartier lighter that one would offer a Parisian in an opium den. I hope to see more of Imaan in future issues! Geraldine changes styles in the "Working Girl" editorial with Arizona Muse. Is tinkering with menswear your thing? Arizona looks so young and charming in this story. How about a satin bomber over a tank and coveralls with thigh-high boots as you run errands this fall?

The "Beaute" features have expanded under Alt and continue to be must-sees in each issue. Geraldine goes organique in high style photos by Mark Segal. Unkept, random, and wet are officially chic when applied to makeup and hair!

More changes in this issue include the return of the legendary Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, her interview and editorial are highlights as well. Melanie Ward also returns to style Raquel Zimmermann. The python is alive in these pics and Raquel's new crimped hair changes the mood of these fall styles along with minimal gold chains and Edie Sedgwick leggings. Any future book on Dries van Noten must include Ward's take on his patterned coat!

Another top model changes her hair color for Vogue Paris as styled by Suzanne Koller. Sasha Pivovarova is back — so different from her last VP cover! The reddish highlights are casually "unfinished." She looks very Parisian with unkept hair and tailored looks in solid/graphic sophisticated fabrics.

August has come and gone, but this issue will stand the test of time, as so many under the dominion of editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt. Au revoir summer… but the sun never sets on great fashion and style!

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

samedi
août232014

Review: Vogue Paris August 2014 Issue

Review: Vogue Paris August 2014 Issue
By Heather Dunhill

Before I launch into my August review of Vogue Paris I have a question to ask: Have you experienced the magazine online? It will change absolutely everything. I download my copy via iTunes and it is the modern magazine reimagined… and it’s quite fabulous.

This month, swipe just once and you are on Gucci’s Bright Diamante découvrez le film, which just takes luxe advertising up, up, and far and away. Swipe two is a montage of continually changing and refreshing art fashion images found within. And, that was simply two swipes…. wait until you see what else is in store.

But I digress….

The opulence and exoticism of the Orient is back and was styled in "Bijoux" in a way that would meet the approval of Yves Saint Laurent himself. So beware if you are going to pull off the trend, it is best to take the advice of Coco Chanel — “take one thing off before leaving the house” — and flip it. Add at least one more piece, if not three.

And, if you want to get to know Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele, the stylist before stylists were stylists, check out #CCD. This woman can literally pair together and pile on anything and make it look better than Carrie Bradshaw, always with the confidence of one who innately knows. By the way, this is the woman who single-handedly defined the 90s style of iconic supermodels from Campbell to Turlington. Yeah, CCD is cool.

But, really, my issue favorite is "Audacieuse" (Translation: Bold) with photos by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, styled by Emmanuelle Alt. Absolutely beyond bold and into fantastically divine where they took pieces from the likes of the big dogs — Ashish, Chanel, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier, Miu Miu, Gucci, Lanvin, Gareth Pugh, and Yohji Yamamoto — it’s otherworldly. I can’t spoil it for you… it is truly a must-see. You won’t be the same.

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

samedi
août162014

Alt Inspires Saint Laurent Emmanuelle Bag

Alt Inspires Saint Laurent Emmanuelle Bag
By Paul Kolyer

Is owning an IT BAG on your bucket list? If you were a Muse, which would you choose? Permit me to present the Saint Laurent Emmanuelle Bag!

Is this bucket bag named in honor of Hedi Slimane's friend and muse Emmanuelle Alt? Rarely seen wearing status bags, Ms. Alt has worn the new Emmanuelle bag this year! Emmanuelle prefers the black leather version with fringe and wears it like a cross body bag. For the Saint Laurent show in June, Ms. Alt accompanied the bag with head-to-toe Saint Laurent black — leather fringe jacket, slim pants, and booties — for Maximum Noir Chic!

Another top stylist, Melanie Huynh, was spotted wearing the same version of the bag as Emmanuelle to the couture shows in Paris! Ms. Huynh was an assistant to Carine Roitfeld at Vogue Paris and is a muse to Mr. Joseph Altuzarra! Melanie is perfection with the Emmanuelle bag over one shoulder, peasant blouse and safari skirt! I say let the ladies who lunch have their Birkins and Lady Diors! How I love them too! The Emmanuelle bag has a rock 'n' roll edge and is so versatile — exactly as chic at the Couture shows, on the back of a Vespa, Chateau Marmont, Coachella, or Glastonberry!

According to those in the know, Louis Vuitton created its famous Noé bucket bag in 1932 to hold Champagne bottles for the well-to-do Parisians! I would totally bring along some bubbly in the Emmanuelle bag to Fashion Night Out Paris this September!

The influence of Hedi Slimane continues to rock fashion's chicest circles, and the Saint Laurent brand is posting double digit profits! I wonder how many Emmanuelle bags will appear on opening night of Slimane's photography show "Hedi Slimane: Sonic"… The show opens September 18 and is sure to be a highlight of Paris Fashion Week.

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Emmanuelle Alt et al photos © 2014 Getty Images, Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.